Lingerie has long held a place in history, evolving not just in form and function, but also in how it reflects society's changing attitudes towards fashion, comfort, and body image. From its early iterations as functional undergarments to today’s expression of individuality, the story of lingerie is one of continuous transformation. It tells a tale of how women’s roles and identities have shifted through centuries, as well as how fashion has followed these cultural changes.
This exploration of lingerie through the ages reveals how societal attitudes shaped intimate apparel over time, from the restrictive and heavily structured designs of the past to the empowering and comfortable styles of today. Each era left its mark on lingerie, reflecting the values, desires, and aspirations of the time.
The Origins of Lingerie: Ancient Civilisations and Early Underwear
Lingerie traces its roots back to ancient civilisations, where undergarments were more functional than fashionable. In ancient Greece, women wore a form of breast band called a strophion, designed to provide support, while Roman women donned subligaculum and mamillare, garments that also served practical purposes. These early pieces of underwear were more about providing basic comfort and modesty rather than shaping the body or making a fashion statement.
In Egypt, both men and women would wear loincloths under their clothing, which were often made from linen, reflecting the climate's demands for lightweight fabrics. The purpose of lingerie in these ancient cultures was largely utilitarian—support and modesty were the key concerns. Yet, even in these early garments, we see the beginnings of the intimate relationship between underwear and the shaping of the body, setting the stage for future developments in lingerie design.
The Renaissance and the Rise of the Corset
The Renaissance saw the rise of the corset, an iconic piece of lingerie that would dominate for centuries. Corsets, which originated in Italy, were designed to shape the torso and create the ideal hourglass figure, emphasising a small waist and a fuller bust. During this time, beauty ideals were heavily influenced by art and culture, and women’s lingerie played a key role in achieving the coveted silhouette. Corsets were made from stiff materials like whalebone and steel, and were worn tightly laced, often to the point of discomfort, to achieve the desired shape.
As corsets spread across Europe, they became an essential part of women’s daily attire. They were often worn under multiple layers of clothing, including petticoats and gowns. While these garments provided support and structure, they were also a symbol of the rigid social expectations placed upon women at the time. The corset became a tool of both fashion and control, shaping not only the body but also reinforcing societal ideals of femininity.
Victorian Lingerie: Modesty Meets Extravagance
The Victorian era brought about a blend of modesty and extravagance in lingerie design. Women of the time were expected to be modest, yet the lingerie they wore beneath their dresses was often intricate and decorative. Corsets remained a staple during this period, but they were now accompanied by multiple layers, including chemises, drawers, and petticoats. These layers served to enhance the hourglass figure, while also adhering to the strict societal norms of modesty.
Despite the modesty of outer garments, Victorian lingerie was often lavishly embellished with lace, ribbons, and fine fabrics. This contrast between outward modesty and private extravagance highlights the duality of Victorian society. Lingerie was still largely functional, serving to shape and support the body, but it also began to take on a more decorative role, reflecting the growing emphasis on luxury and femininity in women’s fashion.
The Edwardian Era: The Introduction of the S-Bend Corset
The Edwardian era saw a significant shift in lingerie design with the introduction of the S-bend corset. This new style of corset pushed the bust forward and the hips back, creating an exaggerated S-shaped silhouette that became the hallmark of the early 20th century. The S-bend corset was designed to give women a more upright posture, with an emphasis on a rounded bust and curved hips, reflecting the changing ideals of feminine beauty during this time.
Although the S-bend corset was still restrictive, it marked a move towards a slightly more comfortable design compared to its Victorian predecessors. This shift was indicative of a broader change in societal attitudes towards women’s roles, as the suffrage movement gained momentum and women began to demand more freedom—both in terms of their rights and their clothing. The lingerie of this period, while still structured and formal, began to hint at the changes to come.
The Roaring Twenties: The Liberation from the Corset
The 1920s heralded a revolution in lingerie design as women liberated themselves from the corset. This was the decade of the flapper, a new breed of woman who embraced freedom in both her lifestyle and her clothing. Lingerie became lighter, simpler, and more comfortable, with the corset being replaced by the chemise and the slip. These garments allowed for a more natural silhouette, in contrast to the rigidly structured shapes of previous decades.
The flapper era also saw the rise of boyish figures, with women favouring slim, athletic bodies over the hourglass shape. As a result, lingerie became less about shaping the body and more about comfort and ease of movement. This shift reflected the changing societal attitudes towards women’s independence, as they began to assert themselves in new ways, both socially and politically. Lingerie in the 1920s was a symbol of this newfound freedom.
The Golden Age of Hollywood: Glamour and the Hourglass Shape
The 1940s and 1950s were the golden age of Hollywood, and this era had a significant impact on lingerie design. Glamorous film stars like Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor became style icons, and the hourglass figure was back in vogue. Lingerie during this time was designed to enhance curves, with bullet bras, girdles, and garter belts all playing a role in creating the idealised figure.
Lingerie became more than just a functional garment—it was now a symbol of glamour and sophistication. Satin, lace, and silk were popular fabrics, and lingerie sets became more coordinated and luxurious. This period also saw the introduction of more structured bras and shapewear, designed to give women the perfect hourglass silhouette. The lingerie of the 1940s and 1950s reflected the cultural ideals of femininity, as women were encouraged to embrace their curves and enhance their natural beauty.
The Sexual Revolution of the 1960s and 1970s
The 1960s and 1970s brought about a sexual revolution, and lingerie design once again reflected the changing societal attitudes towards women’s bodies. The feminist movement had a significant impact on fashion, as women began to reject the restrictive garments of the past in favour of more comfortable and liberating designs. The lingerie of this era was playful, colourful, and often provocative, with the introduction of babydolls, sheer fabrics, and bold prints.
Lingerie in the 1970s was not just about comfort—it was about self-expression. Women began to embrace their sexuality in new ways, and lingerie became a symbol of empowerment rather than oppression. The lingerie designs of this period reflected the growing sense of liberation and freedom, as women demanded more control over their bodies and their clothing choices. The sexual revolution marked a turning point in the history of lingerie, as it became a tool for self-expression and empowerment.
The Rise of Lace and Luxury in the 1980s
The 1980s saw the rise of lace, satin, and luxurious lingerie as fashion once again became more extravagant. Lingerie brands like Victoria’s Secret popularised the idea of lingerie as a luxury item, and women began to invest in more intricate and expensive pieces. Lace bodysuits, satin slips, and elaborate bras became popular, with lingerie being worn not just for function but also for fashion.
Lingerie in the 1980s was about indulgence and glamour, as women embraced the idea of lingerie as an extension of their personal style. The focus was on luxury and self-indulgence, as lingerie became a symbol of empowerment and confidence. Women were encouraged to embrace their femininity and celebrate their bodies, with lingerie playing a key role in this expression of self-love and confidence.
The Minimalist Movement of the 1990s
In contrast to the extravagance of the 1980s, the 1990s brought about a minimalist movement in lingerie design. Thongs, seamless bras, and simple silhouettes became popular, as women favoured comfort and practicality over embellishment. The lingerie of the 1990s was sleek, simple, and often invisible under clothing, reflecting the minimalist fashion trends of the decade.
The minimalist movement in lingerie was also influenced by the rise of supermodels like Kate Moss, who embodied the pared-back, effortless style of the 1990s. Lingerie brands began to focus on creating designs that were both comfortable and functional, with an emphasis on clean lines and simple shapes. This shift towards minimalism reflected the changing attitudes towards fashion, as women began to prioritise comfort and ease in their clothing choices.
The Bralette Revolution: Comfort Over Structure in the 2010s
The 2010s saw the rise of the bralette, a simple and unstructured alternative to the traditional underwire bra. This trend was driven by a growing demand for comfort, as women began to reject the idea that lingerie had to be restrictive or uncomfortable. The bralette became a symbol of the modern woman’s desire for freedom and ease, as well as a reflection of the growing body positivity movement. Unlike the heavily structured bras of the past, bralettes offer a natural shape and are made from softer, lighter fabrics, making them an ideal choice for everyday wear. The bralette revolution was also fuelled by the rise of athleisure and the casualisation of fashion, as women began to prioritise comfort without sacrificing style.
In addition to comfort, the rise of the bralette also coincided with a shift towards inclusivity in lingerie design. Brands began to offer a wider range of sizes and styles, recognising that women’s bodies come in all shapes and sizes. The bralette became an embodiment of this shift, as it catered to a diverse range of body types and offered a more relaxed, carefree approach to lingerie. The trend signalled a significant departure from the highly structured, rigid designs of the past, embracing a more fluid and natural concept of beauty.
Modern Lingerie: Inclusivity, Body Positivity, and Sustainable Choices
Today, lingerie has evolved to reflect modern values of inclusivity, body positivity, and sustainability. The lingerie industry has made significant strides in offering a diverse range of sizes, catering to women of all body types. Brands are now recognising the importance of celebrating every body, moving away from the narrow standards of beauty that once dominated the industry. This inclusivity is reflected not only in sizing but also in the diversity of styles, colours, and designs available to women today.
Sustainability has also become a key concern for modern lingerie designers. As consumers become more aware of the environmental impact of fashion, there has been a growing demand for lingerie made from sustainable materials and ethical production practices. Brands are now incorporating organic fabrics, recycled materials, and eco-friendly manufacturing processes into their designs, ensuring that women can feel good not just in their lingerie but also about the choices they make. The lingerie of today is more than just an intimate garment—it is a reflection of the wearer’s values and a statement of empowerment, comfort, and self-expression.
Conclusion
From its origins as a purely functional garment to its current role as a symbol of empowerment and inclusivity, lingerie has undergone a remarkable transformation. Each era has left its mark on lingerie design, reflecting the changing attitudes of society towards women’s bodies, comfort, and self-expression. Today’s lingerie embraces diversity, comfort, and sustainability, offering women a wide range of options that cater to their individual needs and preferences.
The history of lingerie is a testament to the power of fashion to influence and reflect societal change. As we look to the future, it is clear that lingerie will continue to evolve, adapting to the needs of modern women and celebrating the beauty of every body. Whether through the comfort of a bralette, the luxury of lace, or the inclusivity of sustainable design, lingerie remains a powerful tool for self-expression and empowerment.
